In 2015, Enoteca Maria’s culinary offerings grew beyond Italian fare as Scaravella invited grandmothers from various cultures into the kitchen. The menu started shifting every evening, featuring Greek one night and Sri Lankan the next, based on the nonna’s lineage preparing the meal. The rest is history: The reservation book has continuously remained full; Scaravella published a successful cookbook in 2015 titled Nonna’s House; and this year, Nonnas, a film inspired by the restaurant’s narrative featuring Vince Vaughn and Susan Sarandon, debuted on Netflix to over 15 million viewers within its first week.
Throughout the journey, the women cooking behind the restaurant’s five-burner stove have stayed the highlight of the experience. It’s a privilege, many shared with me, to present their food, their history, and the cuisine of their homeland. “It’s amazing to nourish people and witness their joy in food,” states Melanie Mandel, who prepares Ashkenazi dishes, her voice quivering with emotion. “It brings a fulfilling sense from within, and it’s simply what I was raised to do.”
Nancy Hoffman, claiming the title of oldest nonna at age 94, expressed that cooking at Enoteca Maria feels truly unique, as she started her professional cooking journey over 30 years ago. “It’s the pinnacle of my culinary career.”
For certain nonnas, sharing their culinary creations is instinctive. “I adore cooking, and I love when people enjoy my dishes. When you come here, it feels like you’re among family,” remarks Kathy Viktorenko from Uzbekistan. “It’s as if you’re in your own kitchen cooking for someone.”
Each of these women symbolizes a vital link in a living chain of shared culinary wisdom that transcends generations. “Many women out there hold a wealth of old-world expertise,” Scaravella states. “They carry the tradition onward.” Numerous nonnas at Enoteca Maria shared that they learned to cook from their mothers and grandmothers and are now teaching their grandchildren those same recipes. In true grandmother style, many nonnas don’t rely on specific measurements or written recipes, instead trusting their taste, scents, and memories. “Everything is here,” says Wen Xian from Shanghai, pointing to her head.
An evening at Enoteca Maria is not without its obstacles. For one, there’s the unfamiliar induction cooktop, and secondly, the quick-paced service in the 35-seat restaurant. However, the nonnas hardly flinch. “Ten, fifteen, twenty—I’m accustomed to that,” Mandel comments. “I begin by considering what they’ll take home.”
Others, like Zoraida Benitez, concur. “I’m a chef,” she states. “I graduated from the New York Restaurant School.” For many restaurants, a menu that fluctuates between various international cuisines could spell endless turmoil—constantly altering ingredient supplies and pricing and a relentless flow of new talents in the kitchen might be overwhelming. Nevertheless, the team is undaunted, whether managing dozens of nonnas or equipping the small yet formidable restaurant with all it requires. Their unwavering efforts create the familiar warmth of a kitchen you’ve known all your life—even if it’s another grandmother at the helm. “We speak the same language,” Xian expresses. “We cherish food.”
Food Styling by Inés Anguiano, Prop Styling by Maggie DiMarco
