“What are your plans for Thanksgiving?”
This question has been on my mind since late summer while I navigate my work schedule, restaurant launches, and vacation plans. My family inquires as well, and my friends remind me of their ongoing invitations. As I pen this letter, I’m still uncertain.
The last few Thanksgivings, I’ve been traveling—typically for work—and had to send warm wishes through group messages and admire turkey, stuffing, and macaroni and cheese over FaceTime. Deciding what to do each year has disrupted what was once a steady tradition: returning home for Thanksgiving. One year, I enjoyed a lengthy, leisurely lunch with my beloved friend at one of the finest restaurants globally. Another year, I found myself on a flight somewhere. One more, I attended a neighbor’s gathering, although it felt strange to swap my hostess apron for a guest chair.
Even though I’ve been too occupied to host Thanksgiving in recent years, it remains my favorite holiday. I cherish being in the kitchen with the fragrances of celery and sage, cinnamon and cloves, and molding dough for yeast rolls in my hands. I can swiftly settle a debate over canned versus fresh cranberry sauce with Bon Appétit’s stunning Cranberry-Lime Tart from the collection.
Throughout the years, Thanksgiving has shifted to focus more on peace, grace, and connection, where we honor our chosen family and relatives. Even when I’m not in my home, I still cherish the bond and closeness I’m grateful for. We’ve also strayed from traditional culinary norms, having access to spices and produce from around the globe, enabling us to create whichever Thanksgiving dinner we desire.
Tradition, after all, is also something we forge.
A few years back, I invited some friends of a friend to Thanksgiving dinner and asked them to bring their cherished side dishes. As immigrants primarily from Europe and South America, they felt this American holiday wasn’t “for them” or that their dishes wouldn’t fit. However, their soups, ceviches, and paellas beautifully complemented my herb-roasted turkey and potatoes dauphinoise, connecting them more deeply to this U.S. tradition. Creating a warm, inclusive atmosphere is what I aim for every Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving Hot Takes and Tips
REFER TO IT AS SIDESGIVING
This is essentially what we desire: an abundance of sides, variations of familiar dishes, and those we didn’t know we craved, like the spicy squash. Tip: Keep on auntie’s good side. Instead of replacing a treasured family recipe, introduce a new side to sample.
PICK A SMALL TURKEY
Tackling your first turkey? I suggest Shilpa Uskokovic’s recommendation of a smaller bird (12 to 14 pounds). It’s a bit larger than a duck or chicken, cooks more quickly, and feels familiar. Hot take: The skin doesn’t have to be crispy. You’ve got gravy.
CAKE IS THE NEW PIE
I’m a certified pie aficionado. However, if you want to impress guests and align with the cake trend that’s been prevalent all year, make one, or all, of the cakes. Hot take: The chocolate-pumpkin cake makes a stronger case for canned pumpkin than pie.
