What occurs when the eatery reputed to be the finest globally collapses? It seems we’re on the verge of discovering that.
Noma, which debuted in 2003 and has received a substantial number of Michelin stars since 2011, launched its much-awaited Los Angeles residency on March 11. In the weeks leading up to the inaugural evening, discussions bubbled along healthily. Eyes widened among Angelenos at the $1,500-per-person ticket price. They speculated about the private institution where Noma might enroll the children of its relocated chef. Critics questioned the profitability of this new phase of Noma. Concurrently, a much more serious dialogue erupted on Instagram as former chefs and interns at Noma shared allegations of misconduct against founder René Redzepi.
This week, we’re delving into the complexities of the Noma situation. How did we find ourselves in this position, and what is the current status of the public uproar against its founder and principal figure? —Sam Stone, staff writer
Noma announces LA residency to varied responses
The almost immediate sellout of tickets to Noma’s LA residency, where the team aims to bring its Copenhagen-influenced concept to Silver Lake for four months, may imply a unanimous enthusiasm—in an ideal world. On the flip side, LA chefs conveyed divided sentiments: hopefulness that the pop-up would enhance the local culinary scene’s profile, and concern that it could divert reservations away from their establishments.
Chefs who had previously worked under Redzepi turned to social media to express more troubled sentiments.
Former employees claim abuse by chef René Redzepi, leading to a New York Times investigation
The Instagram profile of Jason Ignacio White, a former head of Noma’s fermentation lab, is filled with screenshots of anonymous messages, allegedly from former Noma chefs who faced abuse and exploitation by Redzepi. These messages started pouring in after White began posting critiques of Noma and its head chef on his account in early February.
The New York Times pursued the matter, publishing an inquiry on March 7 (just four days prior to the pop-up’s launch) that “independently [interviewed] 35 former staff members, whose testimonies reveal a pattern of physical violence Mr. Redzepi perpetrated on his team,” writes reporter Julia Moskin. “Between 2009 and 2017, they recounted, he struck employees in the face, poked them with kitchen tools, and slammed them against walls. They described enduring trauma from layers of psychological torment, including intimidation, body shaming, and public mockery. Mr. Redzepi, they reported, threatened to leverage his influence to have them blacklisted from restaurants globally, to deport their families, or to get their spouses dismissed from their jobs at other establishments.”
Redzepi replied in a statement to the Times, stating: “Although I don’t recognize all details in these accounts, I can see enough of my past conduct reflected in them to acknowledge that my actions were detrimental to those who worked alongside me. To those who have faced hardship under my guidance, my poor judgment, or my wrath, I sincerely apologize, and I have sought to change.”
Sponsors withdraw, protesters gather in LA
As the criticism of Noma escalated, numerous sponsors funding its pop-up took note. Both American Express and Blackbird withdrew their backing after having previously secured blocks of tickets for exclusive sale to their cardholders and members. Blackbird explicitly voiced ethical concerns regarding Redzepi’s alleged behavior in a statement to the Times.
“René’s historical practices, by his own admission, were unacceptable and terrible,” wrote Blackbird’s founder Ben Leventhal. “We cannot rely on the time elapsed and rehabilitation assertions when these matters reemerge.”
Amex stated that customers who had already bought tickets could request refunds, and the company would “reinvest the proceeds” of any remaining, unrefunded tickets in support of hospitality workers in the community. The other three nights of the pop-up, which American Express had contracted but not yet released, will be “returned to Noma,” a spokesperson informed the Times.
