There’s not much in New York City that can draw my attention. However, noticing the cost of a rotisserie chicken on a recently updated menu in my Brooklyn area caused me to take a step back, my jaw dropping in shock.
I messaged the group chat: “Can you guess the price of a rotisserie chicken at the trendy new restaurant in my area?”
No one was even close to the $77 price tag for a whole rotisserie chicken at Gigi’s, which comes with “roasted potatoes and a selection of sauces.”
The online community is already buzzing. When influencer Mike Chau revealed that Gigi’s half chicken is priced at $40, keyboard warriors exploded with reactions. Even New York City Council Member Chi Osse (who oversees a nearby district) shared a vibrant meme in all-caps, questioning, “$40 Half Chicken at a Wine Bar? Seriously?” which garnered more than 8,000 likes.
Rotisserie chicken is a staple for the masses, found in grocery stores across the country as well as at some of the most exclusive dining spots in New York City. So what does a $77 rotisserie chicken indicate about the widening wealth divide, the gap between leisure and laboring classes, and the overall affordability crisis that certainly dismayed those who were shocked by the price?
The chickens at Gigi’s originate from a small farm in upstate New York, which sells them for about $13 or $14 each. The bird is brined, chilled for approximately 24 hours, and rotated in a specialized rotisserie oven. Before it cools, chef Thomas Knodell prepares jus from the drippings. Organic Norwich Farm potatoes are served with the chicken.
Hugo Hivernat, the French restaurateur behind Gigi’s, states that all his staff receive fair wages, paid leave, and health benefits, and as an owner, he sees himself as just an “ordinary person, not driving a Porsche around the Hamptons.” Still, he’s contemplating rebranding the $77 item as a “chicken set.”
Despite the pricing uproar, Gigi’s fully booked all April reservations right after opening. This past weekend, walk-ins queued on the sidewalk, eagerly anticipating a chance for standing room at the window counters. Inside, the fortunate diners enjoyed chicken, $10 rice with drippings, and $19 glasses of orange wine.
“Maybe we have conveyed the wrong impression, but this is a small sit-down establishment, not a bodega,” remarks Hivernat. “Is it wrong that we priced a half chicken at $40? Probably, yes, but this reflects how inflation and the affordability crisis is affecting us. It’s not our fault we have to set these prices.”
The cost of rotisserie and roast chicken has long been a source of intrigue for New Yorkers. A Reddit thread from last summer inquires where to find the priciest half chicken in the city. Respondents mention the $78 poulet rôti with foie gras jus, pommes Fifi, and salade verte at Chez Fifi, a fancy brasserie in an Upper East Side townhouse. There’s also the $85 “half a golden chicken grilled with a bowl of baked borlotti beans, wild cress leaves, and salsa verde” at King, a bistro located in SoHo.
In contrast, Badaboom, a French eatery in Bed-Stuy, offers a rotisserie chicken with potatoes at $32 for half and $58 for a whole. In April, it is set to host an evening titled “pay what you think is fair,” according to co-owner Henry Glucroft.
“Mass-produced, artificially cheap chicken has been in the market for a while now, creating a divide,” comments Glucroft. “People tend to believe chicken should be the most affordable protein; we aim to offer quality chicken.” That said, “sharing a half chicken for two at $16 each for dinner is an excellent value—it’s our best-selling dish,” he adds. “The only pushback we’ve received regarding pricing is from individuals who have never actually ordered the chicken.”










