The chefs worked together for several hours, first to sterilize the onggi over heated charcoal topped with a small amount of honey, which fumigate and purify the vessels. They then added the meju and salted water into the urns, stirring in jujube (a sweet fruit similar to a date) which adds natural sugar, antioxidants, and antimicrobials to balance the flavor of the fermentation. Dried chili peppers also help to stabilize the fermentation environment in the early stage.
The final step will come in a few months when the solids and liquids separate. The liquid becomes ganjang (soy sauce); the solids are mashed to become doenjang (soybean paste). “Both soy sauce and soybean paste are aged further, often for years,” said Ellia Park. “Time softens the saltiness, increases depth of flavor and natural umami develops. It is common in Korea to reference jang by its age—three-year, five-year, or even ten-year-old jang—reflecting its value and complexity.”
The farm comes at the right time in the evolution of Korean cuisine and culture. “Over the past 10 years, there has been a significant increase in global interest in Korean food and culture,” said First Hand Farm’s Director Joshua Lee. Growing Korean ingredients on New York soil is impactful as well. “I’ve come to think deeply about terroir,” said JP Park. “There is something meaningful about ingredients that are grown here, shaped by this environment. That contrast—Korean culinary philosophy expressed through New York-grown ingredients—can create a new kind of identity and experience.”
Paying it forward to the next generation, keeping rituals and traditions alive, is a value embedded in the project. “We want to educate younger cooks, and expose them to the connection between nature, ingredients, and cooking,” said JP Park. “That experience is difficult to replicate in a traditional kitchen environment, and I believe it will become a valuable part of how we train and develop our team.
For the chefs, the farm also represents a broader exploration of the meaning of hospitality.
“First Hand holds two meanings at once: ingredients grown by our own hands, and the very first gesture that makes hospitality possible,” said Ellia Park. “The farm also allows us to build something beyond procurement — a space for education, collaboration, and cultural exchange,” added chef Park. “The farm is not just about growing food. It’s about redefining where hospitality starts.”








