My dining companions and I are nestled in a cozy corner booth, but with only 16 seats—most of them along a Hinoki wood chef’s counter—the entire restaurant feels intimate. Three oysters, bathed in a brown butter soy mignonette and topped with microgreens, arrive at our table on a graphite-colored stone. The perfect bite: briny, bright, rich.
It’s only when I put the glistening, now-empty shell back on the plate that I realize the liquids in our glasses are slowly teeter-tottering from side to side. We’re moving.
Four Seasons I, the first sailing vessel from the storied luxury hotel chain’s new yacht division, has just raised anchor in Athens to set off for a 10-day voyage through the Greek isles. But the only sign this chic omakase restaurant, with its wood-paneled walls and hammered metal backsplash, isn’t firmly planted on land is the subtly shifting wine.
With Four Seasons I—and, in 2027, Four Seasons II—Four Seasons seeks to bring its impeccable hospitality to sea, where a growing segment of travelers is looking to spend their time. According to Cruise Lines International Association, 37.5 million people will take a seafaring holiday in 2025, an uptick of 7.5% from the prior year and 25% above pre-pandemic levels.
Truly a floating five-star resort, all the hallmarks of the Four Seasons experience are present on board.
Sleek, ultra-posh design? Check. Inspired by the superyacht Christina O, where former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis hosted her wedding reception to Greek billionaire Aristotle Onassis, the interiors include artful flourishes from creative designer Prosper Assouline at every turn. (Ask me about the centuries-old nautilus fossil sculpture I stumbled upon during my search for a restroom.)
Highly attentive and personalized service? Check. The ship has only 95 suites and boasts a 1:1 guest-to-staff ratio. Rather than pick from a menu of preset land excursions, vacationers are encouraged to meet with a concierge to tailor their itineraries. For me, a known foodie, FS curated a wonderful walking tour of Spetses that culminated in a delicious lunch on the veranda at the Poseidonion Grand Hotel. I still think about the unique soft, buttery cheese served with horta or greens foraged on the island.
And, finally, world-class dining? Absolutely. You’d expect no less from a hospitality portfolio with 30 Michelin stars, but when dining at sea so often means crowded buffets and kitschy hibachi restaurants, the food on board Four Seasons I feels subversively gourmet.
