Welcome to Deep Dish, a weekly recap of culinary and entertainment updates. Previously, we explored restaurants nationwide taking part in a general strike.
Chicken nuggets adorned with caviar present a study in contrasts. The affluent meets the ordinary. A childhood birthday celebration collides with an elegant adult gathering. New York’s own Korean fried chicken establishment COQODAQ has famously played with this concept, both in their main restaurant and at the U.S. Open, where tennis fans could purchase a box of six nuggets (along with caviar, crème fraîche, and chives) for a laid-back $100. McDonald’s, now, is jumping onto this trend by offering a seemingly free caviar kit for Valentine’s Day in collaboration with Paramount Caviar, which includes caviar, crème fraîche, a spoon for caviar, and a $25 McDonald’s gift card. The financial implications of this puzzle me.
Additionally, this week: Kalshi and Polymarket are launching free pop-up grocery stores, Costco is facing legal action for adding preservatives to its rotisserie chickens, and more. —Li Goldstein, associate newsletter editor
Caviar Has Crossed the Line
For years, caviar has functioned as a sort of cheat code. A dollop of the shiny, black roe immediately indicated luxury, informal extravagance, refinement. However, these days, caviar is everywhere, and the market is heavily saturated. It was all fun and games when the conversation revolved around cheeky, unpretentious caviar bars and the emergence of California caviar, but suddenly real housewives are promoting caviar cookies and things are beginning to seem more critical. Caviar has also become a crutch for chefs, and while delightful, it can grow somewhat monotonous; “Obligatory, and rather dull,” was how New York Magazine food critic Matthew Schneier characterized a caviar garnish at the two Michelin-starred Saga in a recent review.
This week, McDonald’s unveiled a chicken nugget-and-caviar kit designed for Valentine’s Day, which indicates, I believe, that it’s fair to conclude caviar has finally, thankfully, jumped the shark. Look, I supported Zohran. I believe everyone should have access to as much caviar as they desire—from each according to their ability, to each according to their needs, and so on. But perhaps now that Mickey D’s is marketing caviar in a way that David Chang practically pioneered a decade ago, we can transition to the next big innovation. —Sam Stone, staff writer
You Can Wager on Your Groceries Now
Prediction markets such as Kalshi and Polymarket have proven to be both profitable, popular, and hazardous for their participants. On these sites, you can wager on almost anything; Will Jesus Christ arrive before 2027? Will the Knicks defeat the Pistons? What will be the cost of a dozen eggs in January? According to some statistics, 70% of traders experience losses on Polymarket, but, conversely, some individuals win big.
Currently, Polymarket has revealed the launch of their “free grocery store,” a five-day pop-up event in New York City, and contributed a million dollars to FoodBank4NYC. In a competitive move, Kalshi unveiled their own “free” grocery store, offering shoppers $50 worth of complimentary groceries, which opened earlier this week in the East Village. These marketing strategies aim to create awareness, but many have criticized the timing as both Polymarket and Kalshi face respective nationwide class action lawsuits. — S.S.
Costco Confronts a Lawsuit Over Its Renowned Rotisserie Chickens
When I discovered that Costco was facing a lawsuit due to preservatives in its highly popular rotisserie chickens, my initial response was one of vindication. You might understandably wonder why this matters to me; well, back in 2023, when posts on Reddit suggested Costco’s beloved and famously inexpensive chickens had started to taste like soap, I felt compelled to investigate. My findings—including a discussion with a poultry science expert—led me to conclude that sodium phosphate, typically used to enhance chicken juiciness, could be a plausible cause for the soapy flavor. Fast forward to three years later, the ingredient is one of two preservatives mentioned in the lawsuit for contradicting its claim of being “preservative-free”—we’ve been aware of this, my companions. Apologies for centering this on myself. —L.G.
Cape Cod Chips Are Leaving Cape Cod
This week, Campbell’s disclosed intentions to shift production of Cape Cod chips from Hyannis, where they’ve been made for over 40 years. The brand and its Massachusetts beginnings are inseparable—the matte white bags are nostalgic staples in the state and throughout New England. Residents of Massachusetts are grieving the brand’s departure from its home turf. Republican gubernatorial hopeful Brian Shortsleeve expressed on X: “Cape Cod Potato Chips was not just a beloved Massachusetts brand, it was part of our upbringing here. I recall taking my boys to the factory when they were young, watching their excitement, witnessing the chip-making process, and grabbing a fresh bag on the way out. That’s what we stand to lose when companies depart.” —L.G.
