Whenever Jesse Burgess, the presenter, visits a restaurant, the kitchen invariably sends him dishes he hasn’t requested. One of the paradoxes of fame is that the more wealth you possess, the less you need to spend to enjoy it. However, Burgess insists that he isn’t a celebrity. “I’m merely someone who has a deep passion for food.”
At 34, Burgess is the face of Topjaw, a dynamic little internet platform that showcases chefs and food enthusiasts. Its “Best of” series has, whether positively or negatively, altered the dining habits of Londoners and others far and wide. Although the Topjaw channel has existed since 2015, Burgess initiated the viral series in 2023 alongside his friend Will Warr, who is also the videographer for the Prince and Princess of Wales (the one who captured Kate’s cancer announcement video). It has now attracted over a million followers.
The concept of the series is straightforward. In a quick 90 seconds, Burgess inquires of notable figures in the food sector about their preferred spots to eat, drink, or indulge. Featuring an array of prominent chefs, critics, and stars such as Gordon Ramsay, Andrew Garfield, and Florence Pugh, the speedy format – best coffee in London? Best Sunday lunch? Best burger? – shares a kinship with the “man on the street” interviews, where individuals holding a microphone approach people to discuss their relationships or their fashion choices.
Despite having over a million Instagram followers, Burgess remains relatively unknown. However, for chefs who have been featured on his program or have seen their restaurants highlighted? “It’s a very significant platform,” states Oisín Rogers, owner of the Devonshire, a renowned central London pub known for its food and Guinness, who has been on Topjaw multiple times.
With his Rembrandt-like curls, defined jawline, and clever humor, Burgess easily attracts attention, and his content is both enlightening and enjoyable. The success of Topjaw has prompted Burgess and Warr to expand the format beyond London to destinations like Cornwall, Paris, and New York, while Burgess has also begun hosting a new behind-the-scenes TV series, Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, on Apple TV.
Nonetheless, Topjaw has faced criticism from some who deem its format to be simplistic. An insider from the restaurant industry remarked: “It’s content for the lowest common denominator, which resonates well but what else does it accomplish?” Another labeled it as: “One-dimensional yet extremely engaging.” They argue that as online culture becomes increasingly fragmented, it relies on “chasing the zeitgeist,” which can create excitement around places that may not deserve it, a phenomenon described by writer Gabrielle Bluestone as “Schrödinger’s catfish” in her book Hype.
“Does Topjaw attract customers? Absolutely,” affirms Rogers. “You can tell if someone has visited because of Giles Coren, Grace Dent, or Topjaw since they often mention it.”
“But it’s more than just hype,” he continues. “There is certainly a zeitgeist aspect, but simply asking influential or restaurant-savvy people is a simple concept: it’s about empowering opinions. [Topjaw has] no vested interest, so when you trust the source providing the recommendation, which you do when it comes directly from them, that information is priceless.”
In a landscape where the choice of restaurants can be daunting, the influence of social media figures continues to soar. Recently, the government enacted legislation prohibiting “fake reviews” or “hidden incentives” directed at influencers (and others benefiting) who try to mislead about financial arrangements when promoting products. Similar to how restaurant critics typically pay for their meals, Burgess states that he and Topjaw “have never received payment from any restaurant we feature or discuss to maintain the integrity of our recommendations.” However, he believes that consumers have become wise to sponsored content, yet they often remain indifferent.
“While people may value my perspective, I’m not a critic, and my role isn’t to disparage,” asserts Burgess. Instead, he represents a modern form of gatekeeper through whom knowledgeable individuals convey endorsements that can significantly influence a venue’s reputation. “Restaurant critics serve a different function,” notes Rogers. “They play a crucial role and establish the standards that diners seek in restaurants. But just observe the reach of a [Topjaw] clip to comprehend its level of influence.”
The Topjaw impact is indeed apparent. Restaurants like Akub, Kudu, the Seed Library, and Fonda have reported a marked increase in interest following their appearances in videos. One restaurant PR mentioned that a favorable review on Topjaw could lead to several hundred additional bookings.
Conversely, a frequently asked question concerns the most overrated establishments, with Mayfair’s Sexy Fish, once a highly sought-after restaurant known for its onyx façade and low-carb menu, often leading the list. “It appears to symbolize a category of restaurants where diners are more focused on being seen than on the culinary experience,” Burgess explains. “Londoners generally harbor a disdain for that type of venue.”
The Guardian reached out to Sexy Fish for a statement.
Is the sole real winner of Topjaw’s visual content consumerism? Rogers disagrees: “Asking where to find a decent pint? That’s simply a wonderfully straightforward question.”
Jesse Burgess’s top London picks
Best restaurant: Camille in Borough.
Best coffee: Bar Italia.
Best pub: I enthusiastically alternate between the George in Fitzrovia and the Coach & Horses in Soho.
Place I’d travel for: Janda Diner in Peckham.
Best of all time: Ynyshir in Wales. Chef Gareth Ward provided me with the finest meal of my lifetime.
