Editor’s Note: Monthly Ticket is a series focused on captivating subjects within the travel domain. This September, we honor superlatives by examining some of the largest, highest, and priciest attractions and locales around the globe.
CNN
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After residing in Beijing for nearly 12 years, I have had ample opportunity to explore extensively in China.
I’ve traveled to over a hundred cities, not counting the numerous towns and villages scattered across the 31 provinces of the mainland.
Reflecting on my experiences, I’ve realized that my repeated excursions to various segments of the Great Wall in Beijing ignited my passion to discover more of the country, including the numerous wall sections that extend beyond the capital.
Construction on the Great Wall initiated more than 2,500 years ago, tracing its beginnings back to China’s Spring and Autumn Period from around 770 BCE to 476 BCE. Various portions were incorporated in later times as rival dynasties and factions aimed to establish their dominance.
Ultimately, construction came to a halt in the 17th century.
Although it is not a singular, intact edifice, the wall extends over 21,000 kilometers, winding through 15 provinces, 97 prefectures, and 404 counties.
While some segments have become extremely well-known with visitors, numerous portions have fallen into disrepair, obscurity, and at times, total neglect.
Whether it’s your inaugural visit to the Great Wall or your 50th, the following sites are certain to enhance your journey through China. (Be sure to watch the video above for stunning aerial views of some of these extraordinary locations.)
Yongtai Turtle City
The Great Wall is not merely a defensive structure made of bricks; in some areas, towers perched on rugged mountaintops, fortified towns, or even expansive rivers qualify as parts of the “wall.”
The Turtle City, constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) as part of the Great Wall’s “Yellow River Defense Line,” was finalized in 1608 and housed around 2,000 infantry and 500 cavalry during its prime.
Presently, this fortress city is situated in the Sitan Township of Jingtai County in the north-central region of Gansu province.
Although actual turtles are scarce in the “Turtle City,” the garrison town earned its nickname due to its distinctive shape.
The southern gate represents the head, while the western and eastern gates serve as the flippers. The town’s elliptical wall constitutes the body, and the northern gate symbolizes the tail. As one of the most well-preserved and genuinely authentic walled cities remaining in China, it is certainly worth your visit.
Staying near the center of Jingtai County is advisable. The ancient city is a mere 30-minute taxi ride from your accommodation, allowing for visits when lighting is optimal for photography.
While in Jingtai, sample local delicacies such as five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles – both of which are spicy vegetarian options. Also recommended is a stroll through the expansive night market in Jingtai County People’s Square, which features over 50 snack stands for adventurous eaters.
Accessing the area: Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, contains a significant international airport and high-speed train routes from numerous Chinese cities. The journey to Yongtai Turtle City from downtown Lanzhou takes about 2.5 hours (195 kilometers). From Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport, the drive is only 1.5 hours (125 kilometers).
Mutianyu/Jiankou
Mutianyu and Jiankou are two segments of the same Stone Dragon – two adjacent sections of the Great Wall that together stretch for approximately 25 kilometers along the mountain ridges surrounding Beijing.
Historical documents indicate that countless individuals dedicated centuries to the construction of the Great Wall. Standing on the wall at either Mutianyu or Jiankou, you will start to grasp the significance of this assertion.
These two segments are arguably the most quintessential examples of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall that remain today, and ascending either will surely transform your life.
Mutianyu is the most well-known stretch of the “tourist wall.” Restored in the 1980s, it has become quite commercial yet is also exceptionally beautiful. For those not keen on hiking, a cable car can take you to the summit.
West of Mutianyu lies Jiankou, informally referred to as the “wild wall” – entry is unrestricted and it remains non-commercialized. However, as of 2020, hiking at Jiankou has become somewhat discouraged by local authorities due to safety issues.
Mutianyu and Jiankou are located less than a 90-minute drive (without traffic) from central Beijing, although enjoying an overnight stay in the countryside is strongly advised if time permits.
Jiankou can be reached via Xizhazi village; if the timing is right, you might even spend a few days with William Lindesay, a world-renowned historian of the Great Wall, and his lovely family at The Barracks, their home next to the wall.
For accommodations near Mutianyu, The Brickyard is a wonderfully comfortable option.
During the fall and spring, the wall’s gray brick tones contrast beautifully with the vibrant colors of nature. The brilliant autumn foliage and spring cherry blossoms create breathtaking scenery for photography.
Winter sports enthusiasts will find skiing and ice-skating nearby at locations close to Mutianyu.
Directions to Mutianyu: Restrictions on obtaining temporary driving permits in China were relaxed in September 2019, making it feasible for foreign tourists to rent vehicles. (International driving licenses are not recognized in China.)
Alternatively, you can hire a car with a driver for the day or utilize the Mutianyu Special Tourism Bus departing from the Dongzhimen Wai Bus Station.
Directions to Jiankou: Renting a vehicle or booking private transportation is advisable. Since Xizhazi is a compact village, public transport is infrequent, making it possible for travel time to extend to five hours versus 90 minutes by car.
Bataizi
Bataizi village lies just within the Motianling section of the Great Wall and hosts the remnants of a Gothic church established in 1876 by a German missionary.
The church has faced various damages and restorations throughout its nearly 150-year existence; the bell tower remains the only section still intact.
The contrast of its ruins against the rammed-earth Great Wall makes Bataizi a distinctive spot for a morning or afternoon visit.
Following your hike along the wall and a visit to the church ruins, swing by the village’s “new” church to greet Father Pan; if you speak Chinese, he can elaborate on the village’s historical ties with Catholicism.
In addition to Bataizi, Datong should be on your itinerary; visiting the Yungang Grottoes (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and the Hengshan Hanging Temple will enhance your experience.
Late summer is the perfect time to visit Bataizi, as you’ll witness a wonderful contrast between the Great Wall and the lush green hills.
Accessing the village: Bataizi village is located 80 kilometers west of Datong, which is among the largest and most renowned cities in Shanxi province. Zuoyun County is only 22 kilometers away from Bataizi – roughly a 35-minute drive.
Datong can be easily reached by airplane or high-speed train from various cities across China; a taxi ride from downtown Datong to Bataizi will cost approximately 300 yuan (about $43).
Alternatively, you can reach Zuoyun County via bus and then take a taxi.
In Datong, those seeking luxury should head to the five-star Yunzhong Traditional Courtyard Hotel. Zuoyun County offers one hotel that accommodates foreigners: Zuoyun Jinshan International Hotel. Both are listed on popular hotel booking platforms.
Laoniuwan (also known as the Old Ox Bend Great Wall)
As the locals say, Laoniuwan is where the Great Wall shakes hands with the mighty Yellow River.
The Laoniuwan Fortress was constructed in 1467, while the most renowned tower of the Great Wall in this area, Wanghe Tower (which translates to river-watching tower), was erected in 1544.
Laoniuwan village is situated in Pianguan County, part of Xinzhou city in Shanxi province, right across the river from Inner Mongolia.
Visiting during the late summer or early fall is advisable since you’ll avoid potentially hazardous mountain roads during spring rainstorms or feeling uncomfortably cold in an area lacking sufficient infrastructure.
Among the few locations where the Great Wall interacts with bodies of water, this is undoubtedly the most breathtaking.
A boat excursion along the river is highly recommended. You will have the chance to soak in the natural splendor of the Yellow River Gorge while appreciating the unwavering commitment of these ancient builders.
Directions: Laoniuwan is challenging to access via public transit. The optimal choice is to rent or arrange for a car to take you from Datong to Laoniuwan via Bataizi; this route allows you to experience two magnificent sites along the Great Wall within a single trip.
Pianguan is the closest city, about an hour away. Unfortunately, Pianguan lacks a train station or airport, so the only entry method is by bus. Shuozhou, located 140 kilometers from Laoniuwan, features an airport opening later this year.
Fairy Tower
Work on the Great Wall in Simatai commenced in 1373, with expansion and reinforcement occurring periodically throughout the Ming Dynasty.
The Fairy Tower stands out as one of the most recognized towers along the wall at Simatai, yet it is also among the least frequented due to its challenging accessibility.
Instead, aim to appreciate the wonderful views of the Fairy Tower from Wangjing Tower (located just a few hundred meters away). This trek can satisfy even the most daring hikers and does not necessitate any ropes, ladders, or specialized safety equipment.
Just like with visits to Mutianyu/Jiankou, this section of the wall guarantees remarkable vistas throughout the year. My only recommendation is to await a clear day (usually, visibility is best the day after rainfall or snowfall), as the outlook from Wangjing Tower is unobstructed in every direction.
The hike to the Fairy Tower will instill in you a sense of awe regarding the Northern Barbarians’ purported resolve to reach the capital; the mountains are nearly unapproachable on foot, let alone by horseback, with sheer cliffs flanking either side.
This makes it an exceptional hiking experience and an engaging history lesson.
Five-star accommodations are offered at Hobo Farm, which also boasts an impressive restaurant featuring mouthwatering Western and Chinese cuisine. For slightly more affordable yet quality lodging, consider Yatou’s Homestay. Both options can be found on major hotel booking platforms.
Accessing the area: Both the Fairy Tower and Wangjing Tower should be reached through Tangjiazhai village, located in Miyun district of Beijing.
Tangjiazhai village is situated approximately 140 kilometers from central Beijing, depending on your chosen route. Scheduling a private car from the city is likely the most time-efficient option for reaching it.
You may also opt for a high-speed train from Beijing Station to Miyun district and switch to a bus or taxi from there.
Dushikou
Built during Emperor Jiajing’s reign (1507-1567), this section of the wall reaches seven meters in height in some areas – no small achievement considering it was constructed by stacking stones.
It is situated right across the street from Dushikou town, in Chicheng, Hebei province.
The stone-piled wall at Dushikou is distinctive, as many other sections of the Great Wall close to Beijing were built using kiln-fired bricks.
The best time to visit Dushikou is during the summer months, specifically July and August, when the surrounding grasslands unveil a vibrant green hue. The cool evenings provide perfect conditions for outdoor barbecues or bonfires.
You can discover neat and cozy farmhouse accommodations in Dushikou town; alternatively, Chicheng, which is a 45-minute drive away, offers a variety of hotels to choose from.
Lamb skewers and roast leg of lamb are local delicacies, as this region in Hebei lies very close to the Inner Mongolia border. For noodle enthusiasts, trying the local oat noodles is highly recommended as they are delectable.
Accessing the area: With all the infrastructure developed for the 2022 Winter Olympics, the trip to Dushikou has been reduced by nearly two hours. If driving is not an option, you can catch a bus to Chicheng from the Liuliqiao Transport Hub in Beijing and then take a 45-minute taxi ride to Dushikou.
Please be aware that public transport will likely take one to two hours longer than private car travel.
