CNN
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With the Fall-Winter 2023 runways dismantled, it is evident that a singular trend overshadowed the collective enthusiasm for ruffles, pleated skirts, and tailored outerwear.
On the catwalks of New York, London, Milan, and Paris, a conspicuous absence of plus-size models was observed. This occurs at a period when five injectable medications are accessible in the US as appetite suppressants, generating considerable discussion; a sixth, Rybelsus, is administered in pill form. Two of these have received official approval in the UK — marking the most significant introduction of weight-reduction medications the country has observed in nearly ten years.
In recent months, injectables such as Wegovy and Ozempic — both containing the same active ingredient, semaglutide — have gained notoriety as Hollywood’s least-kept weight loss secret. (Ozempic is primarily intended for Type 2 diabetes treatment.) Comedian Chelsea Handler remarked that her “anti-aging doctor just distributes (Ozempic) to anyone” during an appearance on a podcast in January. Even Elon Musk tweeted last year about using Wegovy.
For numerous fashion critics and advocates for diversity, the Fall-Winter 2023 shows starkly contrasted with the (albeit limited) advancements and lofty expectations of recent seasons. This regression has drawn significant criticism from style media. The broader repercussions are being evaluated: With the surging popularity of these weight loss remedies, the chase for size zero is now merely a prescription away.
The Fall-Winter missteps
In 2020, Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser were the first models not in a sample size to walk for the prestigious Italian fashion label Fendi. (Conventionally, a sample size falls between US sizes 0-4.) The British brand Erdem entered the plus-size arena in 2021, broadening its range to a UK size 22 (or US size 18). Additionally, in January 2022, Valentino garnered attention as its haute couture showcase included a wide array of body types. Yet, this season saw a distinct absence of curvier bodies on their catwalks — and many others.
Fendi and Valentino declined to respond when contacted by CNN, and Erdem opted not to comment.
As reported by fashion search engine Tagwalk, the number of mid and plus-size models decreased by 24% compared to Spring-Summer 2023. Similarly, a size inclusivity report from Vogue Business revealed that 95.6% of all looks presented for Fall-Winter 2023 were in a US size 0-4. For context, Plunkett Research estimated in 2015 that 68% of American women wear a size US 14 or above.
“It was a clear regression,” stated IMG model agent Mina White, representing plus-size and curve supermodels like Elsesser and Ashley Graham. “It was disheartening to see some of these designers not featuring curvier bodies when they had in the past.” Fendi and Valentino did not reply when contacted by CNN, while Erdem refrained from commenting.
“Observing someone like Ashley Graham sit front row at so many of these major houses in complete looks (provided by the designer), it was frustrating,” White added. “They intended to leverage her image and social media following to claim a certain market space, yet didn’t want to be representative on their runways.”
For others, even the phrase “regression” felt too lenient. “Regressing from… what? A glorious time when the average American woman (size 16) appeared on the runways just as she does in regular life? A time when fashion advertisements included as many ‘plus-size’ and ‘mid-size’ women as ‘straight-size’ ones?” fashion journalist Amy Odell reflected in her Substack newsletter discussing the past season’s runways. “No data is needed to recognize that showcasing a diverse range of body types in runway shows or fashion imagery is not a priority for the industry.”
Nevertheless, a selection of — largely smaller — brands pressed forward this season. In London, emerging labels Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto, and Sinead O’Dwyer displayed collections with size-diverse models. Inclusivity particularly stood out at Christian Siriano, Coach, Kim Shui, Collina Strada, and Bach Mai in New York; while in Paris, Belgian brand Esther Manas — a consistent advocate for size diversity — held one of the city’s most refreshing runways featuring an assortment of fun, sensual, feminine looks that complemented various body shapes.
There were also some mid- and plus-size model castings seen in other places: Off-White and Michael Kors, for instance, included a few such models. At Harris Reed’s inaugural show for Nina Ricci, Precious Lee kicked off the show — which also featured three more plus- and mid-size models.
It begins with sample size
Fashion samples and sample size garments are individually crafted items made prior to mass production, generally intended for wear during runway presentations. Emphasizing a single body type in sample sizes allows runway models to be more easily interchangeable, which saves fashion houses time and money in case someone drops out or falls ill during or after the casting.
This is also a part of why, according to White, recruiting curve models remains a challenging endeavor. She mentions that she introduces brands to new faces months ahead of runway season, providing their specific measurements clearly in all communications. “I want to be proactive,” White remarked. “So I’m not informed, ‘Oh, we wanted to make it work, but we didn’t have her size’ or whatever that conversation might entail.”
Despite her efforts, White reports that she is often told that producing larger samples represents too much of a “financial burden” — even by established brands. “I get very upset when brands make that claim,” White noted. “I don’t accept that, I think it’s a lack of proper education on how to make this work effectively.”
Beyond the evident lack of representation, White highlights it’s disheartening for plus-size consumers to witness brands allocate resources to develop custom, fitted pieces for celebrities — while proclaiming that there’s insufficient budget for more inclusive runway samples.
London stylist and editor Francesca Burns concurs that sample sizes contribute to the dilemma. In 2020, Burns went viral when she shared on Instagram about a fashion job that didn’t go as planned. She recounted being sent five outfits to style from Celine, none of which fit the size UK 8 (US 4) model hired for the shoot— an 18-year-old embarking on her first professional job. The incident left her “horrified,” Burns told CNN, as she noted the model’s feelings of shame and embarrassment. “Looking into this girl’s eyes,” Burns reflected, “she shouldn’t have felt that way.”
Burns’ post, which labeled the current system as “unacceptable,” garnered widespread attention in fashion media. (Celine declined to comment on the incident when CNN reached out.) “Ultimately, the willingness to see change must exist,” Burns stated. “And I question whether the luxury sector possesses that desire?”
An argument for change
Advances have been gradual but not entirely absent. In fashion campaigns, magazine covers, and editorial photography, there exists a rising enthusiasm for inclusivity. “I perceive a plethora of options appearing for plus-sized talent, and they are excellent opportunities,” stated White. “Impressive, robust editorials and campaigns. However, I feel that without appropriate clothing, we will revert to witnessing more naked curve narratives, lingerie curve stories, or showcasing a curve individual in a trench coat. That’s the scenario I wish to avoid.”
For British Vogue’s April issue, released on March 16, Elsesser, Lee, and Jill Kortleve were labeled “The New Supers.” Leading up to the cover story is a letter penned by editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, praising the models for “charting the course” and retaining “important space” within the industry.
“Runways are once more under scrutiny for a glaring absence of body diversity,” read the magazine’s Instagram caption, unveiling the cover. “However, this cover was not intended as a statement. It serves as a celebration of an all-powerful trio, the supermodels of a new generation.”
Many online users promptly highlighted the disconnect: Two of the Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2023 dresses were modeled by plus-size women, yet they are not available for purchase in most plus sizes.
In his social media update, Enninful expressed his disappointment towards the Fall-Winter 2023 runways. “I felt as though I had stepped into a time machine. Show after show, one body type dominated, presenting so many narrow perspectives of womanhood… one defined standard of beauty prevailed again, leaving the realities of countless women globally overlooked.”
However, for White, the power lies within the entire industry — not solely with the brands. “I firmly believe there ought to be an industry standard established between the (Council of Fashion Designers of America), the British Fashion Council, and key editors at major mass-market publications,” she continued. “If these influential figures initiated a call-to-action stating that moving forward, samples should be readily available for various body types, we would witness significant and impactful transformations.”
Burns concurs that there needs to be a trickle-down effect. “A lot of the burden is directed towards emerging designers to address these challenges concerning sustainability and body inclusivity,” she explained. “It’s crucial that the large powerhouses, which possess the means to instigate change, accept some responsibility.”
‘No such thing as a free meal’
On March 8, Wegovy — primarily developed for those dealing with obesity and related weight issues — received approval in the UK. It is the second injectable weight management medication introduced with a prescription via the National Health Service (NHS) in about three years, following almost ten years of inactivity. The last weight loss drug approved in the UK prior to 2020 was in 2010.
Likewise, the United States has authorized three weight management injections: Wegovy, Saxenda, and IMCIVREE. Medications for Type 2 diabetes, including Mounjaro and Ozempic, are not FDA-approved for weight loss; however, some medical professionals are prescribed them at their discretion.
While these drugs represent a groundbreaking resource for those who find it difficult to shed pounds due to genetic or medical factors, they are vulnerable to misuse.
Semaglutide, the active component of Wegovy and Ozempic, was initially devised for the treatment of Type 2 diabetes. It mitigates hunger signals to the brain by imitating the hormone glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1). “It can decelerate the rate at which your stomach empties, potentially leading to an extended sensation of fullness,” Dr. Robert Lash, an endocrinologist and Chief Medical Officer of the Endocrine Society in Washington, D.C., explained. In clinical trials lasting 68 weeks, participants who used the drug alongside reducing calorie intake and increasing physical activity lost, on average, about 15% of their body weight compared to just 2.4% of those receiving a placebo, as reported by the manufacturer Novo Nordisk.
On March 13, the European Medicines Agency released a notice indicating a potential shortage of Ozempic that may persist throughout the year, urging healthcare providers to prioritize prescriptions for diabetics. “Any alternative use, including for weight management, constitutes off-label use and jeopardizes the availability of Ozempic for the indicated demographic,” the announcement stated.
Typically, patients must possess a BMI of 27 or greater (along with another weight-related condition such as high blood pressure or diabetes) or have a genetic susceptibility to obesity to acquire prescriptions for such appetite suppressant medications from their physicians. However, discussions surrounding these injectables have exploded across the West. In January, the New York Times reported on the term “Ozempic Face,” which was coined by a New York-based dermatologist describing patients with a hollowed-out appearance resulting from rapid weight loss. By the end of February, this medication had reached the cover of New York Magazine in a feature titled “Life After Food?” Advertisements for GLP-1 injections are even filling New York City subway stations.
Additionally, across social media, online discussions, and private group chats, individuals wishing to shed pounds for mainly aesthetic motives are exploring methods to navigate around the prerequisites.
“I was just searching for a way to drop a few pounds, like 10 to 15 at most,” stated one 30-year-old American woman, who preferred to remain anonymous, during a phone conversation. She explored social media and discussion forums for advice on obtaining a weight reduction medication. “I’m definitely a normal BMI; I just have a trip to Mexico coming up and want to look really great,” she shared.
Although she claims to have found a way to access Wegovy, she opted against the medication after contemplating the expense (which can exceed $1,000 monthly without insurance). “I’ve traditionally fit the societal expectation, but lately I thought, forget it, I want to be thin,” she expressed to CNN.
Dr. Lash underscored the necessity of taking weight loss medications only under medical oversight and with a legitimate prescription. “If someone who is of normal weight consumes this drug in hopes of being even slimmer than they currently are, it might lead to complications,” he cautioned, noting potential side effects like nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and gallbladder issues. “These medications are not harmless; they do have gastrointestinal side effects. There is no such thing as a free meal.”
Every body is welcome
Fashion has traditionally lauded size 0 as the ultimate ideal — irrespective of its practicality for many individuals or any associated health risks. Now, with the availability of accelerated weight loss medications, the stakes have escalated. For Burns and White, the industry bears the responsibility to promote a new, more inclusive notion of beauty.
“There’s an outdated perception regarding women above size 16, presuming that they are unhealthy, uninformed, or lacking style. Or that they lack the means to invest in luxury,” White commented. “In reality, the same women that brands are alienating within their fashion space are also the women rushing to purchase their handbags, shoes, perfumes, cosmetics, and skincare.”
Designers must not only create apparel with this consumer in mind, according to White, but they also need to ensure visibility on the runway.
“This shouldn’t require a discussion. It ought to be normalized that we look at more than one interpretation of beauty,” Burns reiterated.
Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, whose bridal-themed Fall-Winter 2023 collection showcased one of the season’s most size-diverse runways, succinctly conveyed in their accompanying show notes: “The body is not the focal point. Because, naturally, at a wedding, every body is invited. And all to the festivities. That’s the standpoint taken by designer duo Ester and Balthazar.”
