Welcome to Deep Dish, your weekly digest of culinary and entertainment updates. Last week, we talked about Prue Leith’s departure from Bake Off.
Food carries political weight. It has been stated so frequently that it feels cliché, yet it might be more accurate now than in the past. Consider Minnesota, where nearly 100 food pantries in the state have endorsed a public letter urging an end to the increased presence of federal immigration agents in the region. Or examine the network of community food aid that has emerged throughout the state. Additionally, numerous dining establishments are opting not to serve ICE agents.
Today, eateries nationwide are engaging in a mass general strike to protest against ICE’s actions. In this edition of Deep Dish, we interview two restaurant proprietors about their decision to close for the day and the message they aim to convey through their strike. Also featured this week: your favorite food influencer might have attempted to post about ICE, only to encounter censorship; tariffs on wine are creating difficulties; and amid all this, Noma commences its residency in LA—someone fetch me something fermented STAT. — Sam Stone, staff writer
Restaurants Nationwide Protest Against ICE
Unexpectedly closing during service is a significant challenge for any restaurant, where financial viability hinges on consistent hours and filled seats. Nonetheless, many dining establishments across the nation found the sacrifice worthwhile today, participating in a nationwide strike against ICE’s mass deportations and aggression towards protesters both in Minneapolis and around the country.
Evan Hanczor, chef-owner of Little Egg in Brooklyn, NY, deliberated this week on how to best contribute to the cause, considering the effects on their employees and finances. “Earlier this week, a few of our servers inquired if we would be closing on Friday and expressed their willingness to give up their shifts in support of the strike,” he communicated to Bon Appétit, which led to a team-wide discussion and a mutual agreement to close in support of the cause. He expressed joy at witnessing a chain reaction of other establishments similarly taking action. “It’s not a decision every small business can afford to make, but I believe seeing it occur in such numbers has encouraged more people to take action and express their views publicly,” he noted. “We all need frameworks and community support to progress toward taking action, and I think we’re observing individuals find that in the actions of others.”
On the West Coast in Los Angeles, local café Sqirl also closed in solidarity with their community, one of the initial areas affected by ICE operations, they noted in a statement to Bon Appétit. “The ensuing raids caused genuine harm to our staff, our neighbors, and the overall restaurant community,” they conveyed. “In response, people nationwide stood in solidarity and raised their voices in support, which meant a great deal to us as residents of Los Angeles.”
“Fundamentally, our industry is about uniting families and communities, not tearing them apart,” Sqirl stated in their message. “We are participating in this united action to emphasize that point clearly, and we take pride in standing alongside the workers, families, and communities who have made the identical choice to uphold those ideals.
Hanczor is hopeful that the collective action, along with Little Egg’s engagement, “will serve as a small spark of awareness and encouragement for our community and patrons,” he expressed. “While we were pondering closing, I considered, ‘this national strike initiative is great; I hope it reaches the necessary level for effectiveness.’ Then I realized, ‘oh, I (and the restaurant) [are] pivotal to that outcome; each of us plays a role.’”
