As the California gold rush was winding down, a miner’s wife encountered a dilemma.
Her husband’s work trousers were frequently tearing, leading her tailor, Jacob Davis, to propose reinforcing areas under strain with copper rivets, such as the corners of pockets and the bottom of the button fly, to prevent damage.
Before long, Davis’ “riveted pants” gained immense popularity and, unbeknownst to him at that moment, signaled the formal inception of blue jeans, an article of clothing that would revolutionize fashion and symbolize the United States worldwide.
“It has truly democratized American fashion and represents our greatest export to the globe since people associate jeans with American Western culture,” stated Shawn Grain Carter, a fashion educator at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. “It transcends social or economic status. Political beliefs don’t matter. Denim is universal.”
These days, retailers of all sizes benefit from denim sales, with the global denim market touching $101 billion this year, a 28% increase since 2020, according to research data from Euromonitor International. Renowned apparel brands, from American Eagle to Levi Strauss are competing to dominate that sector, with A-list stars like Sydney Sweeney and Beyonce utilized to attract consumers and boost sales amid a shaky economy.
Had it not been for Levi Strauss, founder of the namesake blue jeans enterprise, Davis’ innovation might have remained limited to the railroad town where it originated in the early 1870s.
How Levi’s developed blue jeans
Shortly after Davis invented his riveted trousers, then referred to as “waist overalls” or “overalls”, they began flying off the shelves and he required a business partner to obtain a patent, according to Tracey Panek, Levi’s resident historian. Consequently, he reached out to Strauss, a Bavarian immigrant overseeing a thriving wholesale operation in San Francisco and had provided Davis the denim he used to stitch his riveted creations.
“The secret to those pants lies in the rivets I attached to the pockets, and I found the demand so substantial that I cannot produce them quickly enough,” Davis conveyed to Strauss in a letter, as noted by PBS.
Strauss, an “astute” entrepreneur, seized the opportunity and accepted the collaboration with Davis, Panek said.
“This marked Levi’s first foray into actually manufacturing his own goods,” noted Panek. “He was no longer merely trading and selling others’ products. He was now producing and supplying to retailers.”
On May 20, 1873, the duo secured a patent for the riveted pants and subsequently established a factory on Fremont Street, near what is now the Salesforce tower in San Francisco’s financial district.
They vowed to provide the most resilient jeans available, leading to a rapid business expansion.
Dude ranch attire and the American labor force
Thanks to Strauss’ connections as a wholesaler, the company’s riveted overalls quickly distributed throughout the United States, becoming the go-to garment for laborers: miners, cowboys, farmers—any profession demanding tough clothing.
At that time, jeans were exclusively associated with work environments, yet emerging denim manufacturers aimed to diversify their selections to stimulate sales.
“Gradually into the 20th century, you began seeing these manufacturers creating variations,” observed Sonya Abrego, a fashion historian based in New York City. “There was a specific design called spring bottom pants, which were more fitted, a dressier option, perhaps what a factory foreman might wear, as opposed to just the individual on the shop floor.”
In 1934, Levi launched the first-ever line of jeans for women. During this period, denim started gaining traction in leisure contexts beyond work, particularly for activities like dude ranch trips, camping, and horseback riding.
“Thus, they were embracing a cowboy’s or worker’s garment but donning it in a … resort environment,” explained Abrego.
Dude ranch vacations gained popularity as highways finally linked different areas of the nation, while few dared to travel to Europe amid wartime. Brands like Levi began promoting their denim as “dude ranch duds” and “genuine western riding gear” to attract vacationing shoppers, according to contemporary advertisements.
These cultural phases helped broaden denim’s appeal beyond the working class, but jeans didn’t become commonly accepted casual wear until following World War II, when American fashion underwent significant transformation.
The emergence of backyard barbecues
By the conclusion of World War II, the thriving American consumer was starting to surface. For years, citizens had to ration essential items such as rubber, sugar, and meat while being urged to save money through war bonds and set aside extra funds.
As the nation transitioned from wartime to peace, Americans sought to indulge, quickly spending on new vehicles, appliances, and clothing.
“With a bit more disposable income, there was a noticeable push for leisure apparel, casual wear, and clothing for backyard gatherings,” noted Abrego. “The types of clothing we would classify today as casual style.”
Gradually, it became more acceptable for both genders to sport jeans outside of work environments. Subsequently, denim producers began advocating for jeans in educational institutions.
“They aimed to market to the broadest possible audience,” remarked Abrego. “The notion that jeans are appropriate for school implies they’re suitable for everyday wear.”
By the arrival of the 1960s, denim manufacturers had broadened their range and were offering an array of colors, fits, and styles. Jeans became emblematic of the hippie movement and a staple on Hollywood productions.
Before long, denim presence was ubiquitous, and the 1970s introduced the iconic bell-bottom pants and the inaugural version of the “designer jean”—denim produced by labels whose designs transcended work or western attire, such as Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt.
Since that period, denim has maintained its significance in global fashion. Although styles, washes, and fits have evolved over the years, jeans have remained timeless, which contributes to their lasting appeal, stated Abrego.
“This design originated in 1873 … can we identify anything else from 1873 on the streets today? It’s quite astonishing when you regard it that way,” Abrego remarked. “We can discuss all the nuances, manufacturing changes, and myriad fits and finishes, but it remains recognizable; it’s still jeans. For me as a historian, that continuity is deeply intriguing because I can’t highlight any other item that has preserved its essence to this extent.”
