It’s 6pm in Herne Hill, southeast London, and I’ve stepped out for some Caribbean cuisine clad in stylish athleisure attire. Yoga pants and a chic hoodie, but athletic wear nonetheless. And, upon arriving at 2210 By Natty Can Cook, it becomes apparent that I’m quite underdressed.
When chef Nathaniel Mortley declared his intention to launch a restaurant aimed at honoring Caribbean culture “in style” and aspiring for a Michelin star, his devoted Instagram followers, along with their families and acquaintances, embraced the theme and dressed for the occasion. As exquisitely plated ackee and saltfish spring rolls glided by, along with plenty of rum punch, I fumbled through my handbag for larger earrings and additional makeup. “This isn’t just dinner, it’s an event!” I whispered to Charles when he inquired about my trip to the bathroom to freshen up my lipstick, leaving him engrossed with a menu showcasing confit pork belly with scotch bonnet mayo, lobster rasta pasta and carrot and plantain bhajis. By the time I returned, a dish of thin, crispy roti with an irresistibly addictive scotch bonnet butter dip had materialized. One shouldn’t consume butter, but in this case, it’s justifiable.
This newly established dining spot represents a natural evolution of Mortley’s recent tenure at the Greyhound pub across from Peckham library, where his red snapper with corn salsa and jerk chicken with brown butter mash quickly garnered him a dedicated clientele. Mortley began his culinary journey as a teenager – his mother is an accountant, and his father is a businessman – and he continued on to work at places like Oblix and Jason Atherton’s City Social, but various life events led him to spend some time at Her Majesty’s Pleasure in Brixton HMP.
Focusing on this prison experience may appear somewhat ungracious, especially considering how remarkably elegant 2210 is, yet those incarceration years are a key aspect of Mortley’s backstory. Many trendy restaurants these days launch with a picturesque, romantic narrative about Chef Tarquin wandering through Thailand or India, engaging in a gap year and collecting inspiration, so when Mortley discusses his experiences at the Clink, the charity-based, inmate-operated eatery at Brixton prison, food enthusiasts are likely to perk up. The Clink, which I visit occasionally, has a quirky setup: you reserve a table at least a week ahead, undergo security checks in a temporary building, and then are escorted into the intimidating environment of Brixton prison. If you’ve ever watched Porridge, filmed from 1974 to 1977, you might find that Brixton hasn’t changed much, with a palpable atmosphere of despair hanging around. Until, that is, you enter a discreet structure where a semi-formal restaurant serving modern European dishes is bustling. Inmates prepare the food, manage front-of-house duties, and, within these walls, at least, a sense of hope thrives.
Mortley fully immersed himself in life at the Clink, asking himself profound questions about why he found himself incarcerated instead of advancing in the Caribbean culinary realm. Now, after numerous residencies, he must gaze out from 2210’s service hatch when the hustle and bustle is in full force and marvel at the transformation of his life.
Charles, my ever-patient dining companion, claims 2210 is the best dining experience we’ve had this year; I concur, placing it firmly on my best-of list. That ackee and saltfish spring roll, for instance, is a crispy delight packed with succulent fish, presented on a red pepper velouté and topped with a spring onion emulsion. Next, a lamb belly skewer dressed with a masala reduction and tomato concasse. The jerk chicken stands out with an elegant infusion of thyme, garlic, and cinnamon, accompanied by a tangy mango and pineapple salsa. A notable highlight is the seared pimento duck breast, served alongside a confit duck leg croquette and pumpkin puree.
Indeed, 2210 isn’t inexpensive – starters average around £12 and mains are generally near the £30 mark – but the meticulous attention to detail in each dish elevates this venue beyond mere special occasions. Currently, only two desserts are available: a plantain cake topped with white chocolate ganache, a dense sponge accompanied by “chocolate snow,” which is the simpler of the two. Consider this as your initial dessert, then proceed to the deep-fried apple crumble, featuring sizable segments of pickled apples with apple gel and caramelized pecans, all deep-fried and accompanied by coffee chantilly and a basil-infused crème anglaise. Calorically, this is undoubtedly superfluous, but for the sake of your own happiness, I wholeheartedly recommend it.
2210 by Natty Can Cook is far more than just upscale jerk chicken at elevated prices. It’s already a bustling hotspot, showcasing truly great offerings.
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2210 by Natty Can Cook 75 Norwood Road, London SE24, 020-3713 5108. Open Weds & Thurs 5-9pm, Fri 5-11pm, Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-9pm. Expect to spend about £50 per person for three courses à la carte; on Sundays about £45 per head, plus drinks and service
