Editor’s Note: Monthly Ticket is a CNN Travel series that highlights some of the most intriguing topics in the world of travel. In September, we’re honoring superlatives as we explore some of the globe’s largest, tallest, and priciest attractions and destinations.
CNN
—
Having spent nearly 12 years in Beijing, I’ve had ample opportunity to explore extensively in China.
I’ve toured over 100 cities, not to mention numerous towns and villages across the mainland’s 31 provinces.
Reflecting on my experiences, I’ve realized that my regular excursions to different segments of the Great Wall in Beijing ignited my enthusiasm to discover other parts of the nation and, in turn, the numerous sections of the wall beyond the capital’s limits.
The construction of the Great Wall commenced over 2,500 years ago, its origins traceable to China’s Spring and Autumn Period, around 770 BCE to 476 BCE. Different segments were developed in later eras as rival dynasties and groups aimed to establish their dominance.
Activity on the wall eventually ceased in the 17th century.
Although it’s not a single, continuous entity, the wall extends over 21,000 kilometers, weaving through 15 provinces, 97 prefectures, and 404 counties.
While certain areas are extraordinarily popular with tourists, many sections have faded into obscurity, disrepair, and at times, utter neglect.
Whether you’re intending to visit the Great Wall for the very first time or the 50th time, the destinations listed below will certainly enhance your trip to China. (Don’t miss the video above for stunning aerial views of some of these incredible sites.)
Yongtai Turtle City
The Great Wall is not merely a brick and mortar barrier; in various locations, watchtowers perched atop rugged mountain summits, fortified towns, or even broad rivers qualify as segments of “wall.”
The Turtle City, constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) as part of the Great Wall’s “Yellow River Defense Line,” was finalized in 1608 and housed around 2,000 foot soldiers and 500 cavalry during its peak functioning.
Nowadays, this fortress city is situated in the Sitan Township of Jingtai County in north central Gansu province.
Although there aren’t many real turtles in “Turtle City,” the garrison town received its nickname due to its distinctive shape.
The southern gate serves as the head, while the western and eastern gates resemble flippers. The town’s oval wall forms the body, and the northern gate serves as the tail. Being one of the most well-preserved and authentically intact walled cities remaining in China today, it’s truly worth your visit.
Staying in the Jingtai County center is advisable. The ancient city is merely a 30-minute taxi ride from your accommodation, making it accessible whenever the lighting is ideal for photographs.
While in Jingtai, sample local delicacies such as five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles – both of which are spicy vegetarian plates. A stroll through the expansive night market in Jingtai County People’s Square, featuring over 50 snack stalls, is also recommended for adventurous food lovers.
Getting there: Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, features a significant international airport and high-speed train services from many cities within China. The journey to Yongtai Turtle City from downtown Lanzhou takes roughly 2.5 hours (195 kilometers). From Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport, it’s a mere 1.5 hours (125 kilometers).
Mutianyu/Jiankou
Mutianyu and Jiankou are two segments of the same Stone Dragon – two adjoining sections of the Great Wall that together extend for approximately 25 kilometers along the mountain ridges of Beijing.
Historical records indicate that countless individuals dedicated centuries to the construction of the Great Wall. Standing atop the wall at either Mutianyu or Jiankou allows you to truly grasp the significance of this statement.
These two sections represent perhaps the two most iconic examples of Ming Dynasty Great Wall that have persisted through time, and ascending either of them guarantees a transformative experience.
Mutianyu is regarded as the finest section of the “tourist wall.” Restored in the 1980s, it is highly commercialized yet incredibly picturesque. Guests who aren’t keen on hiking can opt for a cable car to reach the summit.
To the west of Mutianyu, Jiankou is commonly referred to as the “wild wall” – no ticket is required and it is not commercialized. However, as of 2020, hiking at Jiankou has become somewhat discouraged by local authorities due to safety issues.
Mutianyu and Jiankou are less than a 90-minute journey (in the absence of traffic) from downtown Beijing, though enjoying an overnight stay in the countryside is highly recommended if your schedule permits.
Access to Jiankou can be made through Xizhazi village; if schedules align, you may have the opportunity to spend a few days with William Lindesay, a globally recognized Great Wall historian, and his wonderful family at The Barracks, their wall-side home.
For accommodations near Mutianyu, The Brickyard is an excellent and comfortable option.
In autumn and spring, the wall’s gray bricks contrast beautifully with the vivid hues of nature. The peak autumn foliage and spring blossoms create breathtaking backdrops for photographs.
For winter sports lovers, skiing and ice skating are available near the Wall at sites not far from Mutianyu.
Reaching Mutianyu: Restrictions on acquiring temporary driving licenses in China were eased in September 2019, allowing foreign tourists to rent a car. (International driving licenses are not permissible in China.)
Additionally, you can opt to hire a car with a driver for the day or take the Mutianyu Special Tourism Bus from the Dongzhimen Wai Bus Station.
Reaching Jiankou: It’s advisable to rent a car or arrange private transport. As Xizhazi is a small village, bus services are infrequent, making it take up to five hours to reach by public transport, compared to 90 minutes by car.
Bataizi
Bataizi village is located just within the Motianling section of the Great Wall and features the remnants of a Gothic church erected in 1876 by a German missionary.
The church has undergone numerous damages and repairs throughout its nearly 150-year existence; the bell tower is the only part that remains intact.
The contrast of its ruins against the rammed-earth Great Wall renders Bataizi a one-of-a-kind locale to spend a morning or afternoon.
After completing your hike along the wall and exploring the church ruins, be sure to stop by the village’s “new” church to greet Father Pan; if you’re fluent in Chinese, he can provide insights about the village’s lengthy relationship with Catholicism.
In addition to Bataizi, Datong should also be included in your travel itinerary; visits to the Yungang Grottoes (a UNESCO world heritage site) and the Hengshan Hanging Temple will enhance your journey further.
Late summer is the perfect time to visit Bataizi, as you’ll witness a stunning contrast between the Great Wall and the lush green hills.
Directions: Bataizi village is located 80 kilometers west of Datong, one of Shanxi province’s most prominent cities. Zuoyun County is only 22 kilometers away from Bataizi – approximately a 35-minute drive.
Datong can be conveniently accessed by plane or high-speed rail from other cities in China; a taxi ride from downtown Datong to Bataizi should cost around 300 yuan (approximately $43).
Alternatively, you can travel to Zuoyun County by bus and then catch a taxi.
In Datong, those seeking luxury should visit the five-star Yunzhong Traditional Courtyard Hotel. Zuoyun County has a single hotel that accommodates foreigners: Zuoyun Jinshan International Hotel. Both options are available on popular hotel booking platforms.
Laoniuwan (also known as the Old Ox Bend Great Wall)
According to locals, Laoniuwan is where the Great Wall and the powerful Yellow River come together.
The Laoniuwan Fortress was erected in 1467, and the most notable tower of the Great Wall in this vicinity, Wanghe Tower (which translates to river-watching tower), was built in 1544.
Laoniuwan village is situated in Pianguan County, part of the Xinzhou district in Shanxi province, directly across the river from Inner Mongolia.
The late summer or early autumn is an excellent season to visit, as it allows you to avoid the possibly treacherous mountain routes during spring rainstorms, or the discomfort of cold weather in an area lacking good infrastructure.
Along the Great Wall, there are few locations where it meets bodies of water; of those, this one is the most picturesque.
Taking a boat ride on the river is highly suggested. You’ll be able to immerse yourself in the natural splendor of the Yellow River Gorge while admiring the unwavering determination of these ancient builders.
Accessing the location: Laoniuwan is challenging to reach via public transit. The best approach is to rent or hire a vehicle to take you from Datong to Laoniuwan via Bataizi – this allows you to visit two remarkable spots along the Great Wall in one go.
Pianguan is the nearest city, located about one hour away. Pianguan lacks both a train station and an airport. The only available means of access is by bus. Shuozhou, 140 kilometers from Laoniuwan, will open an airport later this year.
Fairy Tower
Work on the Great Wall in Simatai began in 1373 and saw expansions and reinforcements throughout the Ming Dynasty.
The Fairy Tower is one of the most renowned towers of the wall at Simatai, yet it is among the least frequented due to the challenges associated with reaching it.
Instead, aim to enjoy breathtaking views of the Fairy Tower from Wangjing Tower (located just a few hundred meters away). It’s a trek that will satisfy even the most daring hikers, yet can be accomplished without any ropes, ladders, or other crucial safety gear.
Similar to the experience at Mutianyu/Jiankou, this section of the wall is certain to provide magnificent views at any season. My only advice is to wait for a clear day (usually visibility is best the day after it rains or snows), as the outlook from Wangjing Tower is unrestricted in every direction.
The trek to the Fairy Tower leaves you in awe of the Northern Barbarians’ presumed determination to reach the capital; the mountains are virtually impassable on foot, let alone by horse, with steep cliffs on both sides.
It offers exceptional hiking opportunities and an intriguing historical narrative.
Luxurious accommodations are available at Hobo Farm, which also boasts a remarkable restaurant serving delectable Western and Chinese dishes. For accommodations with a lower price point but still offering 4.5-star quality, consider Yatou’s Homestay. Both options can be found on major hotel booking websites.
Directions: Both the Fairy Tower and Wangjing Tower should be reached via Tangjiazhai village, located in the Miyun district of Beijing.
Tangjiazhai village is situated 140 kilometers from downtown Beijing, contingent on your route. Scheduling a private vehicle from the city is likely the most time-efficient method to arrive.
Alternatively, you can take a high-speed train from Beijing Station to the Miyun district and then transfer to a bus or taxi from there.
Dushikou
Erected during the reign of Emperor Jiajing (1507-1567), this standalone section reaches seven meters in height at some points – an impressive achievement considering it was built by stacking stones.
It sits just across the street from the town of Dushikou, in Chicheng, Hebei province.
The stacked-stone wall at Dushikou is distinct, as most sections of the Great Wall near Beijing were built with kiln-fired bricks.
The best time to visit Dushikou is during the summer, particularly in July and August, when the rolling hills of the surrounding grasslands are at their lushest. The cool evenings are excellent for outdoor barbecues or bonfires.
You can find clean and comfortable farmhouse accommodations in Dushikou town; alternatively, Chicheng, located 45 minutes away, has various hotel options available.
Lamb skewers and roast leg of lamb are local specialties here, as this region of Hebei is very close to the Inner Mongolia border. Noodle enthusiasts should also try the local oat noodles, which are delicious.
Directions: Thanks to the infrastructure built for the 2022 Winter Olympics, the journey to Dushikou has been shortened by almost two hours. If you prefer not to drive, you can take a bus to Chicheng from the Liuliqiao Transport Hub in Beijing and then cover the final 45-minute taxi ride to Dushikou.
Please note that public transport will take one or two hours longer than using a private vehicle.
