CNN
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With the Fall-Winter 2023 catwalks now concluded, it’s evident that one trend overshadowed others, including the collective fondness for ruffles, pleated skirts, or tailored coats.
Throughout the runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, there was a significant lack of plus-size models. This occurs at a time when five injectable medications for appetite suppression are available by prescription in the US, igniting considerable discussion; additionally, Rybelsus, a sixth option, is an oral medication. Two medications are officially approved in the UK — marking the largest influx of weight loss drugs seen in the country in nearly a decade.
Recently, injectables such as Wegovy and Ozempic — which contain the same active ingredient, semaglutide — have been frequently mentioned as Hollywood’s best-kept weight loss secret. (Ozempic is predominantly prescribed for Type 2 diabetes.) Comedian Chelsea Handler remarked that her “anti-aging doctor casually dispenses (Ozempic) to anyone” during a podcast in January. Even Elon Musk tweeted last year about his Wegovy use.
For numerous fashion critics and advocates of diversity, the Fall-Winter 2023 catwalks starkly contrasted with the (although somewhat limited) advancements and optimistic outlook of recent seasons. This regression has faced broad criticism within style media. Its potential implications are being examined on a wider scale: As these weight loss remedies gain popularity, the chase for size zero has become merely a prescription away.
The Fall-Winter setbacks
In 2020, Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser became the first models beyond a sample size to walk for the Italian fashion brand Fendi. (Typically, a sample size ranges from US 0-4.) The British label Erdem entered the plus-size sector in 2021, expanding its offerings to a UK size 22 (or US size 18). And in January 2022, Valentino garnered attention as its haute couture presentation showcased a broad array of body types. However, this season, there was a noticeable absence of curvy figures on their runways — as well as many others.
Fendi and Valentino did not respond to CNN’s inquiries, while Erdem opted not to comment.
Based on data from fashion search engine Tagwalk, the representation of mid and plus-size models fell by 24% compared to Spring-Summer 2023. Similarly, a size inclusivity report from Vogue Business revealed that 95.6% of all looks presented for Fall-Winter 2023 were in sizes US 0-4. For reference, market research firm Plunkett Research estimated in 2015 that 68% of American women fit into a size US 14 or larger.
“It was a clear regression,” stated IMG model agent Mina White, who represents plus-size and curve supermodels like Elsesser and Ashley Graham. “It was disheartening to observe that some designers chose not to include curvy bodies when they had done so previously.” Fendi and Valentino did not respond when reached out to by CNN, while Erdem chose not to comment.
“Witnessing someone like Ashley Graham occupy the front row at numerous major houses in full looks (supplied by the designer) was frustrating,” White added. “They aimed to harness her image and social following to gain traction in the market, yet they refrained from being reflective on their runways.”
For some, even the term “regression” felt overly generous. “Reverting from… what? A glorious period when the average American woman (size 16) was as visible on the runways as she is in daily life? A time when fashion advertisements featured as many ‘plus-size’ and ‘mid-size’ women as ‘straight-size’ models?” fashion journalist Amy Odell expressed in her Substack newsletter reflecting on this past season’s runways. “No one needed statistics to recognize that showcasing a diverse range of body shapes and sizes in runway shows or fashion images is not a priority for the industry.”
Nonetheless, several brands—mainly smaller ones—advanced with inclusivity this season. In London, new labels Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto, and Sinead O’Dwyer presented collections featuring a variety of size models. Inclusivity was apparent at Christian Siriano, Coach, Kim Shui, Collina Strada, and Bach Mai in New York; while in Paris, Belgian brand Esther Manas — a consistent champion for size diversity — hosted one of the city’s most invigorating runways showcasing an array of playful, sensual, feminine styles catering to different body types.
There was also a sparse presence of mid- and plus-size model castings elsewhere: Off-White and Michael Kors showcased a few such models. Precious Lee opened Harris Reed’s debut for Nina Ricci, which also highlighted three additional plus- and mid-size models.
It begins with sample size
Fashion samples and sample size pieces are unique garments created before an item is mass-produced, primarily designed for use during runway showcases. Favoring a singular body type in sample sizes allows runway models to be more easily interchangeable, saving fashion houses both time and finances should someone drop out or become ill during or after the casting period for a show.
This factor also contributes to the ongoing challenge, according to White, of casting curve models. She explains she presents brands with new talents months ahead of runway season, ensuring their specific measurements are clear and easy to interpret in all communications. “I want to be proactive about it,” White stated. “So I’m never met with ‘Oh, we wanted to accommodate her, but we didn’t have her size’ or whatever that conversation entails.”
Yet despite her initiatives, she reports frequently encountering the assertion that creating larger samples involves too significant a “financial burden” — even from established brands. “I feel very frustrated when brands express this,” White stated. “I don’t accept that it’s true; I view it as a matter of people lacking the right education on how to implement this correctly.”
Beyond the insufficient representation, White emphasizes that it’s disheartening for plus-size customers to see brands allocate resources to design custom, made-to-fit pieces for celebrities — all while asserting that the funds are insufficient for creating more inclusive runway samples.
Francesca Burns, a London-based stylist and editor, concurs that sample sizes are a part of the issue. In 2020, Burns gained attention after sharing her experience on Instagram regarding a fashion job that went awry. She stated she received five outfits to style from Celine, none of which fit the size UK 8 (US 4) model assigned for the shoot — a young woman on her first job in the industry. The experience left her “appalled,” Burns recounted, reflecting on what she perceived as the model’s shame and discomfort. “Looking into this girl’s eyes,” Burns remarked, “she shouldn’t have felt that way.”
Burns’ post, criticizing the current system as “unacceptable,” garnered widespread attention in fashion media. (Celine declined to comment on the incident when contacted by CNN.) “Ultimately, there must be a desire for change,” Burns noted. “And I question whether luxury possesses that desire?”
An argument for change
Progress has been gradual, yet not entirely absent. Across fashion campaigns, magazine covers, and editorial shoots, there’s an increasing zeal for inclusivity. “I notice the opportunities expanding for plus-sized talent, and they’re promising options,” White mentioned. “Remarkable, impactful editorials, covers, and campaigns are emerging. However, I fear that without the appropriate clothing, we’ll revert to featuring more nude curve stories, lingerie curve stories, or a curvy girl in a trench coat. That’s what I want to avoid.”
For British Vogue’s April issue, revealed on March 16, Elsesser, Lee, and Jill Kortleve earned the title of “The New Supers.” Preceding the cover story, editor-in-chief Edward Enninful penned a letter praising the models for “charting the path” and securing “influential space” in the industry.
“Runways are once again facing criticism for a glaring absence of body diversity,” the magazine’s Instagram caption stated when unveiling the cover. “However, this cover wasn’t intended as a statement. It’s a celebration of an all-powerful trio, the supermodels of a new generation.”
Nonetheless, many online promptly highlighted the discrepancy: Two of the Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2023 dresses were modeled by plus-size women, yet they were not available for purchase in most plus sizes.
In his own social media update, Enninful expressed his dissatisfaction with the Fall-Winter 2023 runways. “It felt like stepping into a time machine. Show after show was dominated by a singular body type, with only narrow interpretations of femininity… a single defined concept of beauty persisted, overshadowing the realities of so many women worldwide.”
However, for White, the influence lies within the wider industry — not solely with brands. “I genuinely believe there should exist an industry standard among the (Council of Fashion Designers of America), the British Fashion Council, and prominent editors at major mass-market publications,” she continued. “If there was a unified call-to-action from these leaders advocating for readily available samples suited for several body types, we would witness meaningful and substantial change.”
Burns concurs that a trickle-down effect is essential. “It seems that a lot of pressure is placed on young designers to resolve all these issues relating to sustainability or body inclusivity,” she stated. “It’s crucial that the major establishments, which have the means to implement change, take on some accountability.”
‘There’s no such thing as a free lunch’
As of March 8, Wegovy — primarily developed for individuals dealing with obesity and weight-related issues — received approval in the UK. This marks the second injectable weight management treatment available through the National Health Service (NHS) in about three years, following nearly a decade of silence. Before 2020, the last weight loss drug approved in the UK was in 2010.
Likewise, the US has now greenlit three weight management injections: Wegovy, Saxenda, and IMCIVREE. Medications for Type 2 diabetes like Mounjaro and Ozempic are not FDA-approved for weight loss, although some physicians are prescribing them at their discretion.
While these drugs are a groundbreaking resource for individuals struggling to lose weight due to genetic or medical factors, there is a risk of misuse.
Semaglutide, the active component in Wegovy and Ozempic, was initially formulated to treat Type 2 diabetes. It dampens hunger signals to the brain by mimicking the hormone glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1). “It can decelerate how quickly your stomach empties and may enhance the feeling of fullness,” explained Dr. Robert Lash, an endocrinologist and Chief Medical Officer of the Endocrine Society in Washington, D.C. During clinical trials over a span of 68 weeks, subjects who utilized the drug in conjunction with consuming fewer calories and increasing their physical activity experienced an average weight loss of approximately 15% versus 2.4% for those using a placebo, as reported by the manufacturer Novo Nordisk.
On March 13, the European Medicines Agency released a communication warning of a potential Ozempic shortage that could persist throughout the year, urging doctors to prioritize prescriptions for diabetics. “Any alternate applications, including for weight management, represent off-label usage and currently jeopardize the availability of Ozempic for the indicated demographic,” the statement advised.
Patients are generally required to have a BMI of 27 or greater (alongside another weight-related condition such as high blood pressure or diabetes) or exhibit a genetic propensity towards obesity to qualify for such appetite suppressant medications prescribed by their physician. However, discussions surrounding these injectables have surged in the West. In January, the New York Times highlighted the term “Ozempic Face,” introduced by a dermatologist based in New York who reported treating numerous patients exhibiting a hollowed-out appearance following rapid weight loss. By the end of February, Wegovy had made its way to the cover of New York Magazine in a piece titled “Life After Food?” Advertisements for GLP-1 injections have also flooded New York City subway stations.
In addition, throughout social media, online forums, and private group chats, some individuals seeking to shed weight primarily for aesthetic reasons are looking for ways to circumvent the requirements.
“I was just trying to find a method to shed a few pounds, like 10 to 15 at most,” shared a 30-year-old woman from the US, who preferred to remain anonymous, during a phone interview. She combed through social media and forums for advice on obtaining a weight loss drug. “I’m certainly of normal BMI, I just have a trip to Mexico coming up and I want to look my best,” she mentioned.
Although she claims to have discovered a way to access Wegovy, she ultimately opted against the medication after pondering the expense (which could exceed $1,000 a month without insurance). “I’ve always fit societal expectations, but recently I thought, f*ck it, I want to be thin,” she conveyed to CNN.
Dr. Lash stressed the necessity of using weight loss medications only with medical oversight and a legitimate prescription. “If someone is of normal weight and uses this drug simply because they think they could be leaner than they currently are, that might result in complications,” he advised CNN, cautioning against nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and even gallbladder issues. “These drugs are not harmless; they can produce side effects involving the gastrointestinal tract. There’s no such thing as a free lunch.”
Every body is welcome
The fashion industry has long upheld size 0 as the ultimate ideal — regardless of its applicability for numerous individuals or any associated health risks. With the introduction of fast-track weight loss medications, the stakes are now even more pronounced. For Burns and White, the industry must work to elevate a new, more inclusive interpretation of beauty.
“There exists a very antiquated perception of women larger than size 16, presuming they’re unhealthy, uneducated, or lacking style. Or that they don’t possess the means to invest in luxury,” explained White. “The fact is, the same women that these brands exclude from their fashion spaces are often the same ones eager to purchase their handbags, shoes, fragrances, cosmetics, and skincare products.”
Designers not only need to craft garments considering this consumer base, according to White, but they also must ensure they are represented on the runway.
“This conversation should not exist. It should be properly normalized that we are not exclusively focused on a singular definition of beauty,” echoed Burns.
Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, whose bridal-inspired Fall-Winter 2023 collection was among the season’s most size-diverse showcases, encapsulated it perfectly in their show notes: “The body is not the focus. Because, of course, at a wedding, everyone is invited. And all are welcome to the celebration. That is where designer duo Ester and Balthazar take their stand.”
